I recently had the privilege of witnessing Krishna Janmashtami (Dahi Handi in Mumbai) celebrations (thanks Niladri!). This Hindu festival honors Lord Krishna, reportedly a mischievous youth, who even climbed to high shelves to get to the butter his mother had hidden. In like fashion, teams of 20 - 100 able men make human pyramids to reach and break a suspended clay pot of ghee (clarified butter). The whole community comes out to see, and the teams ride in giant trucks to compete at various sites until they're all won. More recently, political or community groups sponsor the competitions so the winners split a big prize. I was told that the first one I saw was worth 1 MILLION rupees ($21,400). In buying power that's like $100,000, a princely sum even split 100 ways, and I'm told others are worth many times more. More info here.

Getting there and back was even more amazing though. We had a tough time finding an auto-rickshaw, but Niladri finally convinced a reluctant driver to take us to the competition at Ghatkopar. After stopping to pick up my camera, the driver said we wouldn't make it in time, and suggested going to two closer competitions he knew of. So we did. He drove us through police barricades and crowds of hundreds like we were celebrities in a limo. And we made it just in time. Knowing it would be difficult to find a ride back, he allowed us to pay for the ride there and back in advance, so he could wait for us, as long as we didn’t get separated. The three of us watched in awe, as equals, pointing out the best vantage points to each other – on top of that bucket, next to that pole…and when the first one was over, he took us to the second, then back to my apartment, and then Niladri home. Over an hour for a fare of $3.

I’m not sure if it was the leading of the Holy Spirit, or the jubilance of the festivities, or merely thanks for going well above and beyond his duties, but I wanted to thank him. I had intended to give a bit less, but didn’t have the right change…and decided my policy of staying within local economic norms allowed for exceptions…I pressed a bill worth about $10 into his hands, which was met with an expression of “Sir, I don’t have change for that.” I know he didn’t understand my words, but the message got across: “It’s a gift. I’m very grateful for your kindness and all you did for us tonight.” His eyes grew wide as he gasped for air, and in spontaneous gratefulness he kissed my hand as it passed the bill into his. It would be appreciated by him and his family in ways I can’t begin to know.

It is written that we are to do “…good works, which God prepared in advance for us to do.” (Ephesians 2) Maybe this was one of them, maybe not. Regardless, that was by far the best $10 I’ve spent in India.